It's really not more complicated than that.
Trim 9mm brass cracked#
Inspect the cases prior to reloading to make sure there are no cracked brass or if range pickups, no Berdan primed or crimped primers or obviously abused handloads (Glock guppy brass). You really only need to clean handgun brass in some way & then reload. You are right, that machine os more for bottle neck rifle brass. Im really not very versed in the reloading vocab yet, so truly sorry if most of you are now shaking your heads saying *** is this guy talking about So in a nutshell, what am i missing between steps 2-5. Step 5: At this point my brass will be ready to go thru the reload press and become a 9mm round. I was looking at this machine here:Īre these tools used to prep 9mm brass, or is this machine typically used for rifle brass prep? Basically what Im looking for is a retards book for a step x step process on 9mm case prep. My question basically is, what do I do after I tumble my 9mm brass to get them ready to reload. Its only paper targets I shoot, no competition loads needed, just plinkers. I basically buy the cheapest ammo on sale, and consistantly shoot from 10-15yrds, no further. What exactly is the process of case prep for a standard 9mm brass cartridge? By standard I mean nothing fancy will be done with the ammo I shoot. I set up the trimmer and found I was wasting my time. The only new brass I ever bought was some 45 Colt as there was no used stuff to be found. Should have said yes you must trim every piece of brass to exact specs. You can pursue it as much as you want, it will burn valuable time. So my take on it is you've hit upon a non-issue.
Trim 9mm brass free#
He never complained about it (and your own sons would complain even about free ammo.) My youngest son hit the stash pretty hard a couple of years ago. I couldn't tell.Īnd it shoots just fine.still. You can see or feel a difference in length if you concentrate. I didn't bother to check lengths or trim it. I'm a skeptic, and the stuff I paid a premium for that was labeled as once fired may or may not have been. It was for a reloading project back about 1994. I've lowered myself to the bottom of the barrel and purchased gun show bags or 1000 empties. If you buy once fired, or God knows how many times fired, sorting or trimming might be for you.īut if you buy your ammo new and generate your own once fired brass, you can be pretty darn sure its the same length if you keep it together. It might also depend on the kind of shooter you are. Might be more time effective to just sort the stuff you've got by length, then reload it in batches by case length.
You can trim it if you want, but about the only end would be to get uniform bullet seating. 9mm brass tends to get shorter over time as its reloaded. But I was shooting 600 yds.Yep, that was the correct answer. Uniformed neck wall thickness, to me, was necessary to make the case weights mean something when I segregated by weight. My idea was that if it's resized, trimmed/chamfered/deburred the only wall thickness not correlating to internal volume was the neck wall thickness. The rifle brass got one more step - I used a forster case trimmer to turn the necks down to consistent thicknesses prior to weighing. If I was going to weigh brass I'd do it similar to the rifle brass mentioned above - resize it, trim it to length, chamfer/deburr the case mouth. In those days I did keep my brass sorted/segregated by head stamp and tried to keep it together by box. The only center fire semi auto pistol I've ever shot past 50 meters is my old 1911 Colt. Never saw the need to weigh pistol cases. Gave up as none of that worked (to make it shoot like I wanted it to shoot). As a reloading exercise I've only weighed 7.62X51 brass and sorted it, while trying to make my M1A shoot to suit me (almost 40 years ago).
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